Sears and Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer

Whirlpool manufactures most Sears Kenmore washers as well as their own Whirlpool, KitchenAid and Roper brands. The main difference between the Sears and Whirlpool washers is the control console configuration, markings and styling. How do you tell whether you have a belted or direct drive washer? The direct drive washer's cabinet is usually a couple of inches narrower than that of the belted design. The back panel of the direct drive washer covers the entire back of the washer from top to bottom and has no smaller access panels. The belt driven washer's back has a small access panel toward the bottom and the control console has its own, separate back panel.

Whirlpool completely redesigned their washer in the early 1980's. The first direct drive washers appeared in 1983. The new direct drive machines are a big improvement in reliability and reparability. Gone is the belt that was difficult to change, the failure prone control magnet and the leaky agitator shaft seal. The whole cabinet tilts from the front like a Peterbuilt truck engine cover to reveal everything that needs maintenance. You need less tools because the water pump and drive motor are held on by clips. These machines are great for leasing because of their customer acceptance, reliability and reparability.

Proper Operation

• Filling
  • Water level control
  • Water temperature control
• Washing
• Draining
• Rinsing
• Spinning

Problem Diagnostics

The problems are listed in the order that they occur most frequently. In other words, the water inlet valves, lid switches and timers are failing with the same frequency as they did in the old belt-driven machines. They are the same parts. The repair procedures are designed to be printed out by your Web browser for reference while making the repairs.

Slow Fill

• Water just trickles in during the fill and rinse cycles. If the water hose and water valve sediment screens are clear, the water inlet valve may need replacement.

No Pump Out OR Spin

• The motor doesn't run in drain or spin cycle and timer stalls right at that point in the cycle. Check the lid switch.

Skipped Cycles

• The agitate and/or spin cycles are skipped (nothing happens). The timer may need replacement.

Water Pump Problems

• The water pumps out slow but the spin cycle works OK. The water pump impellers may be worn and the pump may have to be replaced.
• There is a small puddle of water coming out from under the front of the cabinet. The water pump seal may be leaking and the water pump may have to be replaced.

Motor Runs but No Agitate OR Spin

• The drive motor runs, water pumps out but the washer won't agitate or spin. The drive motor coupler may be broken.

Motor Runs but No Spin, Agitates Ok

• The drive motor runs and the washer drains but it won't spin. A component in the gearcase may have failed.
• The drive motor runs and the washer drains but it won't spin. The timer may not be pausing the motor between drain and spin.

Unbalanced Spins and Water Leak

• This is the story of how a sheet metal screw falls out of the tub spring mount and/or the tub comes loose on one mount. The tub center post seal gets messed up and has to be replaced.

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