Proper Operation
Learn how your appliance is supposed to operate so you can determine if it is malfunctioning.

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General Electric Washer

The older GE washer design stayed essentially the same for decades and proved to be a reliable machine. I consider its original black plastic housing 'clam shell' timer with replaceable parts to be the best in the industry. Later models went to the more common metal body timer design.

All electrical repairs were easy to make. The suspension is a bit bizarre but it works as long as it has a sturdy floor under it (doesn't like plywood floors in trailer homes). An unbalanced load can dislodge the transmission boot creating a flood. The mechanical design is sturdy. The motor clutch is a little difficult to get off when it needs replacement.

Problem Diagnostics

The problems are listed in the order that they occur most frequently. The repair procedures are designed to be printed out by your Web browser for reference while making the repairs.

  • Water just trickles in during the fill and rinse cycles. If the water hose and inlet valve filter screens are clear, the water inlet valve may need replacement.
  • Water runs out on the floor from the tub after that last unbalanced load of clothes. The transmission boot has come off or ruptured.
  • The motor runs but the water won't pump out. The tub cover shield can allow small articles of clothing to get between the tub and the basket and eventually they may block the tub outlet or the pump inlet. Check the water pump first. If the pump is OK, go fishing for the clothing between the tub and the basket.
  • Water leaks outside the tub and runs out on the floor underneath the cabinet after a spin cycle. Holes may have rusted through just under the tub seal and need to be plugged up.
  • The agitate and/or spin cycles are skipped (nothing happens). The timer may need replacement.

Helpful Links

Additional service information for this older washer design can be found at Washing Machine Repair: Chapter 5