Water Inlet Valve

Problem Discussion

Normally water connot enter the washer unless the inlet mixingvalve solenoids are energized (see Fill under Proper Operation).However, if foreign particles get past the filters, they can becomelodged in the tiny valve orifice and prevent the metal plunger stemfrom seating. Water will then flow through the valve whether thewasher power is on or off. Automatic washers are normally leftunattended. Water flow during a wash cycle can lodge the foreignparticle in the valve, causing the water to continue to flowthroughout all of the cycle functions and after the washer hasstopped. The tub will fill and then overflow. The only way to stop itis to turn off both water faucets connected to the inlet hoses.

Replacement part no: 358276

Procedures for Replacing the Water Inlet Valve

After the water is turned off and the floodwaters havesubsided, either run the washer in a drain function or unplug themachine and bail it out.
MAKE SURE THE WASHER IS UNPLUGGED
Verify that both water faucets have been turned off.
Move the washer out from the wall about 20 inches.
Remove the two 5/16" sheet metal screws securing the waterinlet mixing valve (the screws are near the hose connections onthe back of the washer).
Slide a putty knife in between the top and the cabinet, about3 inches in from each corner. Push in and pull up on the knifehandle to release the spring clips securing the top.
If you have a manual-clean filter, you will not be able toraise the top very far before the recirculate hose restrainsfurther elevation. Open the spring clamp on the hose and slide itdown the hose a couple of inches. Pull the hose off the filterhousing and lay it against the inside of the cabinet.
Slowly raise the top with one hand and hold the lid with theother. Rest the top against the wall.
Reach down into the rear-left corner behind the tub and pullthe water inlet mixing valve, along with its wires and the fillhose, to the top of the cabinet where you have more room to workon it. Open the spring clamp on the valve and slide it down thehose. Pull the hose off the valve.
Both valve solenoid coils have a common white wire. The hotwater valve solenoid will have the brown with red stripe wireconnected to it and the cold water solenoid will have the yellowwith red stripe wire. Label the hot and cold solenoids and removethe wires.
Disassemble the valve that caused the flooding, or if youdon't know which one caused the mess, disassemble both of them.Remove the screws securing the coils to the valve housing. Slidethe coils off of the plastic or copper guide housing. Pull theguide housing out of the valve body and you will expose thediaphram, the metal stem (armature) and a spring. Look for foreignparticles of dirt, sand or metal in the diaphram orifice. If youfind something that could have lodged in the orifice, remove itand reassemble everything. If you can't find anything, you have atough decision to make. You can assume that the cause of theproblem has gone away and it won't happen again. However, thevalves on rare occasions will not seat properly when the solenoidis de-energized. The first time that a valve does this it shouldbe replaced. The damage that a flooding washer can cause faroutweighs the cost of a new mixing valve.
Replace the hot and cold solenoid wires and the outlet hose.Remount the valve assembly on the rear of the machine. Test forproper operation.
Unless you replaced the valve with a new one, watch the washerclosely for a few washloads to make sure it doesn't floodagain.

All of the information in these Appliance Clinicprocedures is provided FREE OF CHARGE. No liability is assumed by theauthor for the accuracy of the contents or damages caused by the use ofthese procedures. By Oron Schmidt.