Washer Email Questions and Answers

Whirlpool Leaking Oil

Steve Smith wrote:

Hi! I was happy to find a page that give some help on repairing washer but I couldn't find any tips on my problem. I hope that you can help me. My washer is leaking oil. I don't know a thing about washer so I have no idea where it is coming from. I am still using it and have notice any problem yet, but I am expecting some anytime. The leak is getting bigger all the time. Is it dangerous for fire?? Thanks for taking time to read my msg.

You didn't say what brand name washer you had. Besides being a mess,leaking transmission grease is not a problem until so much is missingfrom the transmission that the internal parts malfunction. There isno fire danger. If the grease is being displaced by water coming downthe agitator shaft in a Sears or Whirlpool belt drive washer, troubleis ahead caused by rusting gears.

Maytag Leaking Water Injector

THelbling wrote:

Wow-this page of yours looks great. I didn't find an answer to my particular problem but thought you might be able to give me guidance. I had a leaking water injector on the fill hose assembly. I was able to get replacement parts from the Maytag service center but even when I repalce the whole assembly, I still have leaking (more like flooding). What is the purpose of the water injector (vs. a straight connection) and is there some trick to the replacement that I should know about? I would be very grateful if you could take the time to reply.

I have gotten a lot of mail on this problem. I have no idea why theMaytag engineers thought this function was necessary. I replace them with a short piece of hard plastic tubing and never look back!

GE Agitator

Hi Oron

A dish towel and a bathrobe belt got stuck under the agitator. I put some WD-40 in the top and tapped it with a hammer but can't budge the thing. They want $35 just to look at it and it's not my washer. Any ideas? Much obliged, Oron. Actually, I'm in Jamestown, NY and ran across you somehow checking up on my email. Chris

The GE washer agitator is hard to get off. It is held onto the top ofthe agitator shaft by friction and probably some rust. You may have tocut a small hole in the top of the agitator to inject some WD-40 to thetop of the shaft. Sometimes you can heat a wet towel in the microwaveoven and then wrap it around the top of the agitator to expand theplastic. Grab the agitator from the bottom and jerk it up and out.Don't hurt your back!

Sears Washer Pump

n.beals wrote:

Oron Schmidt: Visited your page on Kenmore appliances. Found what I need, I think. My son took washer apart because I was getting water on the floor coming from the right side (looking into equipment after tipping machine forward). He took apart a piece that was about 6 in. around held in place with clamps. Inside was a black rubber band looking seal around the grooved edge. We felt that this seal was flattened with wear and was all we needed. Can this be? Rather than a pump? Seems to be emptying ok and no change in the noise level. Can you respond to this questions? Hate to buy a new pump if only the seal needs replacing. When you get a chance, please respond by E-mail. Thank you!

This is an old pump - they don't make them with the clamps on the bottomanymore. Get the seal good and dry and lay in a bead of siliconesealant to insure it won't leak. These pumps are capable of leakingaround the shaft seal too

Sears Always Draining

Oron, I would greatly appreciate some advise on this repair.

My washing machine continually drains during the wash cycle. The tub refills, the machine starts, the water keeps draining, until it eventually reaches the rinse cycle and all is well. Agitator, etc. seem to be working fine. If I hold the hose into the tub, so the water goes back into the machine, it finishes the cycles with no problem. Not sure what is controlling the water to be pumped out during wash cycle. Any suggestions. I have a Kenmore wash machine, belt driven. Help!!! Thank you in advance, Ed.

OK, the pump is stuck in the drain mode. See check the pump clip.

Maytag Timer/Lid Switch

Dear Oron,

Our 19 year old Maytag washer intermittently stops agitating in the wash cycle, rinse and damp dry. If my husband plays with the timer/controller it will eventually start (it doesn't work for me). Do you suggest replacing it? Should we call in the lonely Maytag repair man? My husband feels the machine will probably work fine if we call in a repair man. Any suggestions will be greatly appreicated. We have a Maytag Model GA 806, Serial # 721271 ZW, Series 02. Thanks Pattie

Make sure that the lid switch. is adjusted to be firmly closed when the lid is down. If this is not the problem, replace the timer using your model number.

Sears Clothes Jamming Basket

Re: Sears Kenmore Washer: 1975 belted model

Motor works but spin cycle does not function because there is a piece of clothes caught between the inner tub and outer tub assembly. What is the procedure in removing this obstruction? If possible, please send step by step diagram. Urgent! Thank you. GeeTee 96

Go to tub leaks procedure for your washer and perform the portion ofthe procedure that removes the agitator and inner basket.

Maytag Off Balance Spin

Bill Kolbenschlag wrote:

I have a Maytag washer, about 8 years old. In the past couple of days, the drum has been making a lot of noise during the spin cycle, it's like too many jeans on one side throwing the balance \ off. However, we tried the washer with a couple of t-shirts and the same thing happens. I replaced the belts, but have no clue what to do next. DO you have any suggestions?

Take the front panel off and make sure all the suspension springs are inplace. Watch the tub and transmission in the spin cycle to see anything unusual.

Whirlpool Timer

shaka wrote:

I for got to give you the model number of the Whirlpool Washer that I have been having trouble with. MODEL # LLR6233AW1 This washer agitates while the tub spins (during the spin cycle). The clothes get caught around the agitator. The timer continues but the clothes are wet and there is water in the tub. Sometimes the cycle stops during the rinse cycle. Thank You

Your washer is not shifting out of agitate before it goes into spin. Ican't tell from your model number if it is a direct drive or belt drive.If it is belt driven, check the agitate coil on the control magnet or wig wag. If the control magnet is OK, check the timer.

Sears Timer

Randy Spotts wrote:

Dear Oron, Help, my Kenmore washer, purchased in June 1990, is having a problem relative to the Gentle Cycle. It fills with water and then just sits there. After some time passes it drains and then refills for the rinse cycle then again just sits...more time drains and then nothing. No agitation. Is there something I can do, as we live in a small town where the repair people are not really helpful. Thank You!!

If the agitate function works in other cycles, then check the timer.

Sears Timer

Philemon Brown wrote:

I haved a kenmore washer, it is about ten years old. It will not go in the rise or spin cyle. It will agitate in the first stage of the wash cycle. Is this a motor problem or something within the timer system? Thanks for your help

Check the agitate coil on the control magnet or wig wag. If the control magnet is OK, check the timer.

Sears Control Magnet

Wayne Ingersoll wrote:

I have a 14 year old Kenmore. It's always worked well and we take pretty good care of it. Only had to have the timer replaced. Now it's mangling clothes, catching them under the agitator. The outside drum spins constantly during the wash cycle. I noticed some light water leakage under the machine. A local appliance repairman came by yesterday evening and advised us by written estimate that the transmission is stuck in spin and estimated $250 to repair. I found your website which seems to contain information right down my alley as to this problem. So here are my questions.

1/ How much should/might a new gearcase and needed parts cost for me to repair this unit using your step-by-step instructions? Ordinarily, would I be able to get such parts through a local Sears service center? Local Sears Center advises me a $120 price for a complete gearcase(reconditioned). Does that sound about right?

2/ Might I just be at the start of a spiral of breakdowns and be better off taking this machine out in the backyard and shooting it? We are inclined to resore and maintain, but at what price and toward what outcome?

3/ I can buy a new Maytag Super capacity 10-cycle, 2-speed for $399. Seems like a good deal and a quick cut to the chase. Might this be the way to go?

Your advice would certainly be appreciated. I plan on moving ahead on this project very quickyly as we do need a functional washer. Thank you very much for the Website and for the follow-up information.

The repairman was right when he said your washer was stuck in the spincycle...but you most likely don't need a new gearcase because the spinfunction is conducted outside the gearcase and around the agitatorshaft. Your spin slider bar is not being retracted at the end of thespin cycle when the spin solenoid plunger falls from the controlmagnet. I think you will find that the pin in the plunger has beensheered and therefore the control magnet can't shift out of spin. Check the spin coil on the control magnet or wig wag. A newpin will cost you a few pennies along with some time to install it. Asfor a slow leak, if you look under the tub leak section you may find somesuggestions or you may consider putting a cookie sheet under the washerand not worrying about it.

Maytag No High Speed

Miriam wrote:

Oron, Thanks for putting tips on appliance repair on the net. I think they're a great help! What is wrong with my machine? My Maytag is about 4 years old and has started to skip the high speed spin cycle. The low speed still works and the timer still goes around. The regular cycle will not spin-out, so someone must manually advance to a wash cycle that has a low speed spin. My wife is patient, but time is growing short for me! Can you help? Thanks, Rex Davey

It's either the timer or the high speed spin winding in the motor. Hopeit's the timer.

Sears No Spin

WilTori wrote:

First let me say that your site is great. I tried to replace the belt on my Sears washer. My old one broke and I did not see how it came off. That was my first problem. I didn't realize that the belt initially goes over the gear case, pump and motor, then thru the clutch shaft. I kept trying to move the gear case off far enough to make a opening between the clutch pulley and agitator shaft. Anyway, I figured it out. But all my pushing and pulling I think has rendered the clutch not to work. The belt turns but the agitator won't spin. Can you help?

Unplug the washer and see if you can shift it into spin and see theclutch pads engage the spin pulley. Transmission alignment is criticalwhen you are tightening the mounting bolts. Recheck the procedure for replacing the belt. You might have to tighten the mounting bolts with the machine upright.

Sears DD Coupler

Thomas Buckner wrote:

First, thank you for a wonderful page of information. Unfortunately i found it after my washer is in pieces.(at least it seems that way but i only have the cabinet off) i think i know the problem based on your info but i hope you can verify something (i know you take no responsibility for what i do--its all right) i have a direct drive kenmore and suddenly none of the agitate or spin works. Based on your info on a new coupler this may be the problem but how can you tell that the motor is running but not doing anything? Tell me if this sounds like it--the tub fills with water, then when it reaches the agitate cycle-i hear a humming like sound. like the motor is trying to do something-or something is trying to do something-but nothing happens. Is this the motor i am hearing? your info sounds like it could be the problem but i really don't want to do this procedure if its not. can i tell if the coupler is bad by looking at it? this would help and i would be willing to look at it before getting a new coupler. Again thank yuou so much for a great wealth of info for the do-it-yourselfer. Your quick response would be appreciated since my wife is not looking forward to going to the laundremat. Thanks again.

If you followed the instructions for the coupler procedures and yousucceeded in getting the cabinet off and the jumper installed in thecabinet connector, you can operate the washer and watch to see if theshaft in to the transmission is moving. If you remove the pump andmotor from the washer, you can clearly see if the coupler is OK. Recheck the procedure for replacing the coupler.

Sears Agitator

Lynn Matt wrote:

Hi Oron, I have a Whirlpool 2 speed, 4 cycle washer, serial=J11711669, model=LWA560W3. According to the diagrams on your web site, my description of the problem is: the machine goes through all the cycles, but during the wash cycle, the agitator shaft does not stay put. It seems like a bolt is missing, so the agitator screw doesn't hold. Is there a bolt missing or is the agitator shaft all one piece and the machine is not worth fixing? Thanks, Lynn

There is a bolt holding the agitator on the shaft. It is accessable from the top of the agitator after removing the top cover. Check tomake sure the bolt is tight.