Replacing Ejector Seal

Mastering the replacement of the ejector rod seals is essential for the continued operation of this icemaker. Purchase the GE I/M seal kit part number WR29X144 for this procedure. You can refer to the instruction sheet included in this seal kit but I will deviate somewhat from the procedures in the sheet.

(Figure 1) Remove the ice cube bin. Remove the icemaker by unscrewing the two long screws going through the icemaker mold to the freezer section wall. Unplug the icemaker electrical connector from the freezer wall and take the icemaker to a table or workbench.
Remove the two plastic plugs holding the white plastic mechanism cover and remove the cover. Remove the ejector guard by unscrewing the 1/4" screw holding it in place.
(Figure 2) Remove the ice ejector pad screw using a large, well fitting Philips head screw driver. This screw will be hard to remove because it has locking cement behind it.
Remove the ejector lever arm bolt using a 5/16" nut driver or socket wrench.
(Figure 3) Grasp the ejector lever and pull it back against the spring until the ejector rod is free. Pull the ejector rod out from below while still holding the ejector lever back.
(Figure 3) If you plan on doing this a lot, buy a Robinair #14368 removal tool, otherwise, slide a small flat blade screwdriver up the ejector rod hole from below and catch the inner edge of the retainer washer to knock it out. Remove the O-ring and nylon hold bearing that was under it. This O-ring is worn out and needs to be replaced.
Again, if you plan on doing this a lot, buy the Robinair #14173 installation tool. Apply silicone grease to the tool and slide the new retainer washer on first (concave side up), followed by the nylon hold bearing and the O-ring. Put a lot of grease on the O-ring. Slide the tool down the ejector rod hole from the top and install everything by tightening down on the installation tool nut.
If you don't plan to buy the installation tool, grease up the black O-ring and put it into the ejector rod recess hole from the top. Follow up the O-ring with the white nylon hold bearing and the retainer washer (concave side down). Use a 5/16" nut driver and a hammer to drive the retainer washer down into place.
Remove the white nylon rod bearing from the ejector rod and discard it. Clean any grease off the rod and polish it using the crocus cloth from the kit.
Apply silicone grease to the new nylon rod bearing and install it on the rod. Apply more grease to the rod. Install the rod back into the mold by grasping the ejector lever and pulling it back against the spring, sliding the rod up into the hole and allowing the lever to slide back into the slot in the ejector rod. Line up the hole in the ejector lever with the holes in the motor mounts and reinstall the ejector lever bolt.
Place the ejector pad over the upper end of the ejector rod and prepare the locking compound. Cut the end off the retaining compound plastic vile. Apply a couple of drops of retaining compound down the ejector rod screw hole. Now crush the vile of retaining compound hardener and squeeze out a couple of drops on top of the retaining compound in the ejector rod hole. The hardener applicator looks like a cigarette filter. Install the new ejector rod screw.
Reinstall the ejector guard and the white plastic mechanism cover.
Reinstall the icemaker in the freezer section by first plugging in the connector and installing the two long screws.
Lower the wire bail.
Remove the block of ice from the ice bin and slide it under the icemaker.

Figure 1 (Return)

Figure 2 (Return)

Figure 3 (Return)