Tub Gasket

Problem Discussion

There are three springs at the base of the tub that are a part of the suspension system. If one of these springs breaks or if the screws that hold the spring mounting bracket come loose, the tub will flail around during the spin cycle. There is a spring on each side and one in the back. The screws tend to work their way out on either side of the tub.

Another frequent cause of a loose tub is a broken mounting tab. This occurs most frequently on the large tubs because the tab is the same thickness as the tub wall and can crack off at the base of the tub (see picture above). The lower capacity washers have a narrow tub mounted on the same base as the full capacity washers. The tabs on the smaller tubs have beefy tabs that rarely break off (see picture below).

If the washer is used long after one of the suspension springs comes loose, you may notice a small water leak at the base of the washer. The unbalanced load in the tub will chafe the tub gasket and eventually it will leak and have to be replaced.

The following picture shows a new gasket. Notice the two ridges in the center. They form a tight seal against the plastic tub and prevent water from leaking from the bottom/center of the tub.

The following picture shows a worn out gasket. Note that the two ridges in the center are worn down. This is allowing water to leak out past the gasket and form a small puddle under the washer.

Use the procedure below to remove the cabinet. Check to see if all three suspension springs are in place at the base of the tub. If not, put them back. You may have to get another 5/16 inch sheet metal screw if one of them has come out. If the plastic mounting tab has broken off the tub, you have a bigger problem. If the tub is leaking from the center underneath, you will need to replace the gasket.

Procedures for Replacing the Gasket

Gasket Part No. 383727

MAKE SURE THE WASHER IS UNPLUGGED.
Remove the two screws down in front on both sides of the control console with a Philips screwdriver.
Pull the control console forward and up to release it and then roll it back against the wall around its hinges.
(Figure 1) Locate the 2-wire harness with the connector that plugs into the top of the cabinet. The wires lead to the lid switch. Disconnect this connector by depressing its locking tab and pulling up.
(Figure 2) Locate the two cabinet clips in each back corner. Place a flat blade screwdriver behind the front curled up edge of the clip and push back on the handle to release the clip. Repeat with the other clip. Remove the clips from the back panel. The cabinet is free now unless you have dispensers. The hoses for dispensers are under a little hose cover in the left hand corner. Open the cover and remove the hoses.
(Figure 3) Roll the cabinet forward to release it in back and lift it up in front to clear all of the cabinet tabs.
Now you have access to everything that was inside the cabinet. Remove the cap from the top of the agitator and use a socket wrench to remove the agitator bolt. Grasp the agitator from the bottom and give it a sharp tug to remove it from the shaft.
If you have a bleach dispenser, slide the hose clamp down the hose and remove the hose from the white plastic tub ring.
Push down on the tub ring with one hand and pull the tab out with the other to release all of the tabs. Lift the tub ring and gasket off the top of the tub.
Locate the spanner nut on top of the agitator column inside the basket. Use a large flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to remove the nut. Gemline makes a neat spanner wrench to remove this nut. Grab the basket at the inside edge at the top and lift the basket up and out. Remove the drive block from the spin tube by driving a screwdriver down into the slot and expanding the drive block from the spin tube.
Locate the air dome down on the right hand side of the tub and remove the plastic hose.
Use a big pliers to remove the three suspension springs from their brackets and then remove the screws from the brackets. Set the brackets aside after marking them so that you know where they came from.
Slide the hose clamp down from the end of the drain hose leading down from the tub towards the water pump. Be prepared to catch some water when you pull this hose off the tub.
Thoroughly clean the agitator column centerpost and leave some water and soap on it. Lift the tub up and over the centerpost.
Locate the black rubber gasket on the bottom of the tub. Squeeze the gasket together and remove it from the bottom.
Push the new one in from the bottom, lubricate the agitator column with some soapy water and slide the tub back down in place. Replace the spring brackets, the three springs and the tub drain hose.
Slide the drive block down onto the spin tub and then replace the basket and spanner nut. Replace the agitator and tub ring. Replace the bleach hose if you had one and the water level hose. Now replace the cabinet.
(Figure 4) Replacing the cabinet is not quite as easy as removing it but observing how the cabinet interfaces with washer frame will speed this process up. The bottom edge of the cabinet front slides under the front frame crossbar and the cabinet sides rest on top of the side frame. Two guide posts, located on each side frame, slide into corresponding slots in the sides of the cabinet to align the cabinet with the frame.
Align the washer back with the back edges of the cabinet so that the plastic strips are flush from top to bottom.
Snap the cabinet clips into place.
Reinstall the cabinet connector.
Roll the control console down around its hinges and drop the end cap tabs into the holes in the cabinet top and slide it back to lock it into place. Replace the two screws.
Reconnect the water inlet hoses and put the drain hose back in the sewer drain.
Plug the washer back in and verify proper operation.

Figure 1 (Return)

Figure 2 (Return)

Figure 3 (Return)

Figure 4 (Return)