Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupler

Problem Discussion

I replace more failed couplers on direct drive washers than any other part. When it fails it will prevent the washer from agitating and spinning but it will still drain as the pump is connected directly onto the motor. If the water is draining, the motor is functioning properly.

The motor to transmission coupler provides for vibration isolation along with some protection to the motor in the event the transmission locks up. If you lay the washer down on the front of the cabinet the coupler can be seen from the bottom as follows although doing so could cause the internal suspension to move out of place.

I have never seen a transmission lock up but I have seen the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

New Design Coupler Part Number: 285753A

The following picture shows the three components of the old coupler: transmission coupler, rubber isolator and the motor coupler. Note that the transmission coupler slides onto the transmission shaft. The rubber isolator is sandwiched between the couplers. The motor coupler slides onto the motor shaft.

The following picture shows the three older style coupler components laid out to show the shaft and rubber isolator holes. Note that the rubber isolator has six holes to accommodate the couplers - each with three studs.

The following picture shows the new improved coupler. On first look, the plastic studs have a larger cross section which should help prevent the studs from cutting through the rubber isolator. Also note that there is not as much plastic material surrounding the shaft hole.

The new coupler occasionally cracks or wears at the shaft hole, allowing the coupler to slip around on the shaft and make a loud noise like a playing card slapping in bicycle spokes. The picture below shows a new style coupler that critically failed in this manner. The latest coupler design has metal inserts where connected to the shafts.

Procedures for Replacing the Motor Coupler

MAKE SURE THE WASHER IS UNPLUGGED.
(Figure 1) Remove the two screws down in front on both sides of the control console with a Philips screwdriver. On the newer washers you may have to remove a plastic trim piece on both ends of the control console to get at the screws. If the screws are rusted you may have to coax them out with a flatblade screwdriver behind the screw head while turning counterclockwise with a Philips screwdriver.
Pull the control console forward and up to release it and then roll it back against the wall around its hinges.
(Figure 2) Locate the 2-wire harness with the connector that plugs into the top of the cabinet. The wires lead to the lid switch. Disconnect this connector by depressing its locking tab and pulling up.
(Figure 3) Locate the two cabinet clips in each back corner. Place a flat blade screwdriver behind the front curled up edge of the clip and push back on the handle to release the clip.
Repeat with the other clip. Remove the clips from the back panel. The cabinet is free now unless you have dispensers. The hoses for dispensers are under a little hose cover in the left hand corner. Label the hoses from left to right and slide the hose clips back. Slide the hoses off the plastic connector and let them drop down. The cabinet is now free.
(Figure 4) Roll the cabinet forward to release it in back. Pull the cabinet up off the front clips and clear of the washer. Set it aside and out of the way.
(Figure 5) Now you have access to everything that was inside the cabinet.
(Figure 6) Locate the water pump down in front and pry its two clips off with a flat-blade screwdriver.
(Figure 7) Pull forward on the pump to slide it off the motor shaft. Don't disconnect the hoses but fold the pump and hoses out of the way and tie them off to the left.
(Figure 8) Remove the motor electrical connector from the right side of the front of the motor. If your motor has a capacitor, you will need to pull the two connectors off it and disconnect another 2-wire connector from the harness.
Use a nutdriver to remove the two front screws holding the motor straps in place.
Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the clamps off the motor. Remove the bottom clamp first. Slide one hand under the motor and release the top clamp. The motor is free and you can slide it out. The motor shield will come out with the motor. There are four rubber grommets between each of the motor studs and the motor mounting plate. Remove the grommets for safe keeping.
Slide a large screwdriver under the white plastic coupler and pry it off the motor shaft. Use the same technique to remove the other coupler from the transmission.
Press new couplers onto the motor and transmission. Don't use a hammer or you may damage the bearings. A plastic screwdriver handle works fine to drive the coupler onto the transmission shaft. Roll the motor over and position the front shaft on the floor before you drive the coupler on the other end of the shaft. This will protect the motor bearings.
Put the black rubber isolator on the transmission coupler by lining up the isolator holes with the three studs.
Put the motor plate on the bottom of the motor and secure it with the two grommets on the bottom. Put the rubber grommets on the motor studs with the widest end facing the motor.
Slide the motor coupler studs into the rubber isolator by rotating the other end of the motor shaft to help align them. At the same time, guide the rubber grommets into the four holes in the mounting plate. Make sure that the motor is positioned so that the electrical connector in front is pointed to the right. When everything is in place, snap the motor clamps down on the motor and replace the screws that secure them. Replace the motor connectors.
Fold the water pump back in front of the motor and onto the front motor shaft. Snap the pump straps back in place.
(Figure 9) Replacing the cabinet is not quite as easy as removing it but observing how the cabinet interfaces with washer frame will speed this process up. The bottom edge of the cabinet front slides under the front frame crossbar and the cabinet sides rest on top of the side frame. Two guide posts, located on each side frame, slide into corresponding slots in the sides of the cabinet to align the cabinet with the frame.
Align the washer back with the back edges of the cabinet so that the plastic strips are flush from top to bottom.
If you had dispenser hoses, they need to be replaced now. Open the washer lid and the hose cover to find the hoses and reconnect them to the plastic hose connector. Compress the hose clamps with a pliers and slide the clamps up to the ends of the hoses. Now roll the cabinet back in place against the back panel and make sure that back panel is against the back of the cabinet from top to bottom.
Snap the cabinet clips into place.
Reinstall the cabinet connector.
Roll the control console down around its hinges and drop the end cap tabs into the holes in the cabinet top and slide it back to lock it into place. Replace the two screws. Replace any plastic trim caps.
Plug the washer back in and verify proper operation.

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