Timer

The timer is located behind the cycle control knob and contains the programs or function sequences for all the major wash cycles. The program is contained inside the timer in a plastic drum with raised ridges on it (see Wash Cycle Control section of Proper Operation). Banks of switches are mounted on the drum. The end of the middle blade of the switch is resting on a plastic cam follower which rides on the drum ridges. The drum is turned by the little synchronous motor mounted on the timer. This motor and its gear train rarely fail. As the drum turns, the switches open and close to stop and start the agitate, drain, spin and fill functions. The switch contacts can fail when they become burned and pitted with use. They can also weld together and account for some awfully long agitate cycles.

The timer controls the sequence of all major functions. Timer problems are usually consistant across all major cycles such as normal, permanent press, or prewash. A major function such as agitate or spin will be messed up on all cycles. You may not be able to get the machine to do anything if the push-off/pull-on switch has failed. If the timer shaft has separated from the plastic wheel at the end, you will not be able to select a cycle or turn the machine on or off. Excessive force when pulling the control knob out or pushing it in can cause this separation. This white plastic wheel is visible from the backside of the timer.

Individual timer components are extremely difficult to order new but sometimes can be scavenged from discarded timers. Our strategy will be to restore timer switches since this is the most likely cause of timer problems.

We will confirm the proper operation of the timer because they are expensive to replace. If you are handy with an ohmmeter and can read the timing diagram pasted to the back of the access panel, you can isolate to the bad switch in the timer.

Contrary to popular belief, it is well worth your while to experiment with the timer. A new one can cost over $100.00. If you want to examine and restore the timer switches, you must remove the timer from the washer.

Procedure for Removing and Examining the Timer

UNPLUG THE WASHER.
Unscrew the cycle control knob (turn counterclockwise). Gently pull the timer dial off the timer shaft.
Remove the rear access panel from the control console. Disconnect the black lead from the timer motor that is inside the clear plastic sheath. Disconnect the black connector block and the white connector block if you have one.
Remove the two screws securing the timer to the console and you will have it free.
Check first to see if the white plastic wheel is secured to the shaft. Locate the wheel on the backside of the timer. Screw the control knob back onto the timer shaft. First check to see if the wheel moves with the shaft for on and off (pulling out and pushing in on the shaft). Next check to see if the wheel moves when the shaft is rotated to select cycles. Any evidence of wheel and shaft separation is fatal and will at least require a replacement shaft.
(Figure 1) Slide the timer access cover off if you want to look at the switch contacts. Screw the control knob back onto the shaft and slowly rotate the drum under the switch cam followers as you move through all of the cycles. Sometimes you can find the contacts that have welded together or are badly charred. The switches are usually arranged in triplets.
Check for continuity by clipping the common lead of an ohmmeter on the center terminal of a switch triplet and the other lead on the upper or lower terminal. When the switch cam follower is at the lowest level on the drum, there should be continuity between the center terminal and the bottom terminal. When the cam follower is on a half-height ridge, there should be no continuity between the center terminal and either the bottom or top terminal. When the cam follower is on a full-height ridge, there should be continuity between the center terminal and the top terminal. Burnish charred contacts with a small flat file. Never use sand paper.
Cycle the main power switch by pushing the shaft in and pulling it out and watching the switch contacts open and close. If the main push-pull power switch linkage does not work because the shaft has separated from the plastic wheel at one end, you will have to buy a new timer.
REPLACEMENT: If you decide that the timer is beyond repair, use the appliance model number to order the correct replacement.

Figure 1 (Return)